Legend of Zelda – Toon Link Play Set with Pattern
He has a sword and shield
This pattern has been a long time in the making and I dare say rivals my Bouncer in terms of intricate pieces and annoying details. If I had lots of spare time or was in prison or some such place, I’d go for different coloured Four Swords Links and add more accessories and enemies and of course Zelda, but for now this set is it. Some parts and details are optional and the accessories can be left out if you want to cut corners. I share the pattern for the whole thing, but be warned, it’s really long and may have some parts seeming complicated or confusing.
A Link was requested several times in the videogame thread so for those who asked, I am pleased to say, here you go 
If you tackle it and have questions or notice mistakes, let me know but if you could please use the comments, rather than contact me via email, other people who may experience similar head scratching will see your question and my answer, so it’s win-win.
Poseable!
His sword goes in a sleeve on his back.
It was so hard to pick an expression.
Shield is removable.
Inspired by Wind Waker
Hairdo was hard to capture...
What big eyes you have?
Red ChuChu
Link wants Jelly
Oink oink!
Legend of Zelda - Toon Link Amigurumi
Needs more pigs.
Sword and Shield
Link and his bomb.
Nefarious intent.
This set was made with a 3.5mm hook going through both loops unless otherwise noted. The eyes and shield details are felt and all other details are embroidery. Arms and legs should be wired.
Yarn Colours Used
Off White
Sunshine
Apple Green
Emerald
Silver Grey
Platinum *
Chocolate
White
Country Rose
Red
Pilgrim Peach
Delft Blue
Hot Pink
Grape
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
SL ST = Slip Stitch
Treble = Treble Crochet or Triple Crochet stitch
INVDEC = Invisible Decrease
INC = Increase (2 SC in one stitch unless otherwise noted)
General Assembly Notes
The body should be done first, attach legs complete with boots and boot details already done, then slip on vest and attach arms while vest is already on, hiding stitches under the vest. Do not attach head to neck until the vest is secured in place since his head is way too big for the neck hole. Belt should be stitched on very tightly and securely so he doesn’t look like bloated sausage Link. Use the buckle to hide your stitches. Wire arms and legs. Attach ears to head after hair but before hat.
Head
Off White
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6 (6)
2. INC x 6 (12)
3. SC x 3; INC x 3; SC x 3; INC x 3; (18)
4. SC x 3; INC then SC; INC then SC; INC then SC; repeat the whole thing; (24)
5. SC x 3 then INC; repeat 5 times; (30)
6. SC around; (30)
7 – 12. SC around (repeat for rounds 7 through 12); (30)
13. SC x 5; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; SC x 7; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; (24)
14. SC then INVDEC then SC; repeat x 5; (18)
15. SC then INVDEC; repeat x 5; (12)
16. INVDEC x 6; (6)
Finish off and keep a long tail for sewing in
If you want to do a nose, hook into the fabric where you want to put it and surface crochet SC x 2 then finish it off and weave in the tail.
Body (starts at the butt and works upside down
White
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18) switch to apple green
4. SC around; (18)
5. SC around; (18)
6. SC x 7 then INVDEC; repeat; (16)
7. SC around; (16)
8-11. SC around; (16) (repeat for rows 8 through 11)
12. SC x 6 then INVDEC; repeat; (14)
13. SC x 5 then INVDEC; repeat; (12)
14. SC x 4 then INVDEC; repeat (10)
15. SL ST then switch to Off White; CH x 1 then SC x 10; (10)
SL ST then finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Use a 3mm hook and Apple Green yarn to SL ST surface crochet all the way around the row where green meets off white to make a nicely edged shirt collar look.
Vest
Emerald Green
CH 26 and SL ST to join
1. In 3rd CH from hook, DC then DC x 23; join; (24)
2. CH x 2 then DC x 24; join; (24)
3-5. CH x 2 then DC x 24; join; (24)
6. CH x 2 then DC x 3; CH x 3 (skip over the next 4 stitches from the previous row to make the arm hole for the vest); DC x 2; SC then SL ST then SC (this makes the V neck shape for the front of the vest) then DC x 2; CH x 3 (skip over the next 4 stitches from the previous row to make the arm hole for the vest); DC to end then join;
7. CH 1; SC x 3; SC x 3 over the CH 3 from previous row; SL ST x 7; SC x 3 over the CH 3 from previous row; SC to end and join.
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Once the vest is stitch to the body of the doll, use a smaller hook to SC around the entire edge of the sleeve opening if you want to finish it off and make it look less like a muscle shirt. That step is optional.
Legs (make 2)
Chocolate or Brown
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC 8; (8)
2-5. SC 8; (8) (repeat for rows 2 through 5 then switch to white)
6. SC 8; (8)
7-11. SC 8; (8)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff boots or legs.
Boot Cuff
Chocolate or Brown
CH 11
1. SC 10; (10)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stitch around the top of the boot to create the cuff of the boot.
Boot Toe
At front of the bottom face of the brown “footie” where a boot toe looks like it would go, starting at the outer corner, surface crochet SC x 4 across then surface crochet SC x 1 downward then back SC x 4 across then SC x 1 one up then join and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stitch the 4 SCs across together and stitch closed.
Arms (make 2)
Off White
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC 8; (8)
2-4. SC 8; (8) (repeat for rows 2 through 4 then switch to apple green)
5. SC 8; (8)
6-11. SC 8; (8) (repeat for rowns 6 through 11)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing in.
Arm Detail
SL ST surface crochet around in green where the skin colour meets the green then CH x 1 and SC around to make a nice finished sleeve look.
Belt use a 3mm hook
CH x 28
1. SC x 27; (27)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing.
Belt Medallion
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. SL ST x 6; (6)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing
Hat
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 4; (4)
2. SC x 4; (4)
3. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, DC, 2 DC in next ST; join; (6)
4. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, 2 DC in next ST, DC, 2 DC in next ST, 2 DC in next ST; join; (10)
5. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 4; join; (15)
6. CH x 3, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 4; join; (20)
7. CH x 3, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST, DC; repeat x 4; join; (25)
8. CH x 3, DC, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 4; join; (30)
9. SC x 5, CH x 1, DC x 5, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 5, SC X 5; join (34)
10. SC x 5, CH x 1, DC x 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 6, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, SC X 5; join (40)
11. SC x 5, CH x 1, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, SC X 5; join (45)
SL ST around edge of hat, finish off and leave long tail for sewing in.
Hair Cap
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC 6; (6)
2. INC in each; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5 (24)
5. SC x 5 then INC; repeat x 3; (28)
6. SC x 3 then INC then SC x 3; repeat x 3; (32)
7. SC x 7 then INC; repeat x 3; (36)
8. SC x 4 then INC then SC x 4; repeat x 3; (40)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing in.
Hair Detail
Hook into the front and CH x 3, do 2 Treble crochet stitches in the next ST, 1 treble and 1 DC in the next ST and DC x 2 in the next ST after that. Now continue as normal (1 ST per ST), DC x 3 then SC x 4 and then SL ST around the remainder of the head cap all the way around to where you first hooked in. CH x 4 then hook into first treble from the previous row. INC in the first treble stitch from the previous round then SC x 9 and finish off. Weave tail into cap and hide.
Bangs
This creates a second lock of bangs to be affixed on top of the hair detail above to give a layered look.
CH x 12
SL ST x 2 then SC x 2 then DC x 2 then DC INC (2 DC in 1 ST) twice then treble crochet the rest and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing it in.
Sideburns (make 2)
CH x 8 SL ST x 2 then SC x 6 and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in.
Ear (make 2)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 5; SL ST x 2; (7)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in.
Shield (front)
Country Rose or Light Maroon
CH x 8
1. INC, SC x 5, INC (3 SC in 1 SC) now go around to the other side of the same CH like a U-Turn, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 5, INC then join. CH 1
2. INC, SC x 7, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 2, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 7, INC then join. CH1
3. SC 4, DC x 6, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, SC x 4, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, DC x 6, SC x 4, SL ST, switch to grey, join. CH 1
4. SC, INC, SC, INC, SC x 6, INC 3 in 1, SC x 6, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 6, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, SC, SC SL ST. CH 1
SL ST around
Shield (back)
Chocolate or Brown
CH x 8
1. INC, SC x 5, INC (3 SC in 1 SC) now go around to the other side of the same CH like a U-Turn, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 5, INC then join. CH 1
2. INC, SC x 7, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 2, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 7, INC then join. CH1
3. SC 4, DC x 6, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, SC x 4, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, DC x 6, SC x 4, SL ST, switch to grey, join. CH 1
4. SC, INC, SC, INC, SC x 6, INC 3 in 1, SC x 6, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 6, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, SC, SC SL ST. CH 1
In grey SL ST a line across top and bottom third of the shield.
Shield Handle
CH x 8
1. SC x 6 then finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in. Attach to grey strips to make handle for the shield.
Stitch the front and back together, right sides facing out.
Sword Blade (make 2 then stitch together, right sides facing out)
CH x 21
1. INC (3 in 1 ST), SC x 18, INC, hook into other side of CH (acts as a U-Turn to work up the other side of the CH) INC, SC x 18, INC (3 in 1 ST);
2. SC 17, SL ST then proceed to SL ST around, finish off and keep a long tail for sewing.
Sword Handle
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 5; (5)
2-4. SC x 5; (5) repeat for rows 2 through 4
5. INC x 5; (10)
6. SC x 10; (10)
7. INV DEC x 3; (7)
Finish off and weave in tail.
Sword Base
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC, INC, SC, INC, INC, SC; (10)
3. SC, INC x 3, SC x 2, INC x 3, SC; (16)
Finish off and leave a long tail.
Attach the handle to the base and sew securely. Wire the handle so it remains stiff. Pinch the base so it make a flat “envelope” around the bottom of the blade of the sword and stitch shut sewing the blade firmly in place.
Sword Sheath
Start with grey CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. DC x 6; join;
2. CH x 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, 2 DC in 1 ST, switch to brown DC, switch back to grey, 2 DC in 1 ST, 2 DC in 1 ST; join; switch to brown
3. CH x 2, DC x 5, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 5, 2 DC in 1 ST; join;
4. CH x 2, DC x 12; join;
5. CH x 2, DC x 12; join;
6. CH x 2, DC x 12; join;
7. CH x 1, SC around; join;
8. switch to grey; SC around ;
SL ST around, finish off and weave in grey yarn. Stitch to the back using brown yarn.
Bomb
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
Blue body of the bomb
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5; (24)
5. SC x 7 then INC; repeat x 3; (27)
6. SC around; (27)
7-10. SC around; (27) (repeat for rows 7 through 10)
11. SC x 7 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (24)
12. SC then INVDEC then SC; repeat x 6; (18)
13. SC then INVDEC; repeat x 6; (12)
14. INVDEC x 6; (6)
Finish off then sew shut and weave in tail.
Grey cap to the bomb CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
grey
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SL ST around; (12)
4. SC x 12 in back loop only; (12)
Finish off and leave long tail for sewing
Yellow stem or wick to the bomb
Hook into cap of bomb, ch 3 finish off leave tail snipped short sticking out.
Red ChuChu
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5; (24)
5. SC x 3 then INC; repeat x 5; (30)
6. SC x 2 then INC then SC x 2; repeat x 5; (36)
7. SC x 11 then INC; repeat x 2; (39)
8. SC x 6 then INC then SC x 6; repeat x 2; (42)
9. SC x 13 then INC; repeat x 2; (45)
10-16. SC around; (45) (repeat for rows 11 through 16)
17. SC 13 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (42)
18. SC x 6 then INVDEC then SC x 6; repeat x 2; (39)
19. SC x 11 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (36)
20. SC x 5 then INVDEC then SC x 5; repeat x 2; (33)
21. SC x 9 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (30)
22. SC x 4 then INVDEC then SC x 4; repeat x 2; (27)
23. SC x 7 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (24)
24-26. SC around; (24) (repeat for rows 24 through 26)
27. SC x 3 then INVDEC then SC x 3; repeat x 2; (21)
28. SC x 5 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (18)
29-32. SC around; (18) (repeat for rows 29 through 32)
33. INC then SC; repeat x 8; (27)
34. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 8; (36)
SL ST then flinish off leaving a long tail for sewing in the nubbly feet blobs.
Nubbly Feet Blobs Make 5
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18)
4. SC around; (18)
5. SC x 2 then INVDEC then SC x 2; repeat x 2; (15)
6. SC around; (15)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing in. Sew 7 stitches of every nubbly to the ChuChu body base. Once they are all attached, sew them all to each other to close the gap and give him an uneven blobbish footing.
ChuChu Eyeball Make 2
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
Start in Yellow
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC then SC; switch to hot pink then repeat x 2; (16)
4. SC x 5, switch to purple SL ST around. Using purple yarn, stitch to body, pull through center of the eye and tie off a knot to make a pupil and stitch in “bags” under the eyes.
Pig
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; CH x 1 (6)
2. SC 6 in back loop only and join (6)
3. SC then INC x 4 then SC; (10)
4. SC x 2 then INC x 6 then SC x 2; (16)
6. SC x 3 then INC; repeat x 4; (20)
7. SC around; (20)
8-14. SC around; repeat for rows 8 through 14; (20)
15. SC then INVDEC; repeat x 4; SC x 8; (16)
16. INVDEC x 8; (8)
17. INVDEC x 4; (4)
Finish off and sew shut, pull yarn through spot in butt and CH x 3 and cut to make the tail.
Pig Leg (make 4)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; CH x 1 (6)
2. SC 6 in back loop only and join (6)
Pig Ear
CH x 3
1. SC x 2; (2)
Finish off (should have a triangular shape) and leave long tail to sew into pig head.
Thanks a lot for sharing the pattern, I’ll try to do it. Since I’m spanish I guess it will take a long time for me to translate properly the pattern, however I’ll do my best. Thanks again. Nadia
oh, i must have looked over it, thank you!
Could you perhaps tell me what size crochet you used? Was it the same for all the parts or did you use different sizes?
It’s listed at the beginning of the pattern before the colours of yarn I used “This set was made with a 3.5mm hook going through both loops unless otherwise noted.”
Hey, I was wondering if you could help me out? I wanted to know if you did anything special to attach the head to the body, because the head on my Link is always falling forward or backward. Is this normal?
Yours seems to stay up. Awesome work by the way.
I have a strong copper electrical wire that runs from the inside of the body up into the head to strengthen to joint and keep it from flopping around since he is so top heavy. You could actually insert one once he is completed too. Have a look at this, it might help http://nerdigurumi.com/wiring-amirugumi-crochet-doll-limbs-tutorial.html
Cool, thanks. So, do you connect the wires from the arms and legs to the one running up and down his body? If so, how?
Not really, I just ran them through. They intersected like a cross but they weren’t connected. There was basically one long wire that went from his left hand, pushed through his torso then stuck out the other side and had the right arm slipped over it, one that went from his right foot, I pre-bent it ike a U shape, pushed it through his hip where the leg would be attached then poked out the other hip and slipped the right leg on, and then a veritcal one going from his butt to sticking out his neck, onto which I slipped the head. There should be a tutorial on wiring on the right menu and there’s a video in my youtube channel.
Alright, thanks for all the help. I appreciated it.
Hi Emajy!
Arms and legs is not wiring stupfen.It that correct?
Many greetings from Germany and thanks for tha pattern of Zelda.For my grandchildren it be a great joy to birthday (13 jears) Wie i can send you a photo of Zelda
kann not english well.!!!
Love greetings Regina
Yes arms and legs should be wired if you want him to be able to stand and be poseable http://nerdigurumi.com/wiring-amirugumi-crochet-doll-limbs-tutorial.html
Arms and legs just do not plug vire?
Many thanks for nice pattern. Nice greetings from Germany.
Regina
Wire would definitely help to keep the doll poseable but it isn’t mandatory
http://nerdigurumi.com/wiring-amirugumi-crochet-doll-limbs-tutorial.html
Ich habe noch eine Frage ,werden die Arme und Beine nur gedrahtet oder auch gestopft? Danke für ihr Geduld.
Viele liebe Grüße Regina
Sorry I don’t speak this language
hurra ,hurra,habe den Fehler gefunden,lag an mir,habe nicht richtig durchgelesen.Es kann weiter gehen.Wenn ich fertig bin wie kann ich dir ein Bild schicken bin dir so dankbar.
Küsschen……Küsschen …
Sorry I don’t speak this language so I don’t know what you are saying
hallo ,hier ist noch einmal Regina!
Legs 7. bis 11. Reihe wieder Braun ?
Sorry I don’t speak this language so I don’t know what you have said.
Erst einmal vielen,vielen Dank für dieses Muster,mein enkel hat mich schon so oft gefragt ob ich den Zelda häkeln kann,soweit gut,Kopf,Arme Weste Körper fertig. Nur mit den Beinen und Stiefeln komme ich nicht ganz zurecht Legs- nur 1. Runde Braun und bis zur 11. weis ?
Bin mit dem englisch auch nicht perfekt und habe darum Schwierigkeiten
Bin Dankbar für ihre Hilfe .Liebe Grüße Regina
Sorry I don’t speak this language so I can’t help you with your question.
[...] Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns with love for the Nerdy » » Legend of Zelda – Toon Link Play Set… [...]
Hello, I love your patterns, I’ve crocheted the sackboy and Kirby and everybody loved them
. So right now I’m doing the bomb from this pattern because I think my brother would like a tiny bomb 
..and i’ve completed round 10 with 27 stitches, but i’m confused of how to do round 11- SC x 3 then INVDEC; repeat x 3; (24) I can’t figure out what you mean. Do I (sc X 3 then INVDEC) 4 times, then stop? Or am I reading it wrong? Please and Thank you.
It was a mistake in the pattern. Do this instead 11. SC x 7 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (24)
Oh ok, thank you so much!
Hi there! I can not tell you how excited I was to find this pattern. I actually had a pretty hard time with several parts of it though, the hair and vest being the first two that spring to mind. I had also never surface crocheted before, but that’s ok because when I googled it for assistance I actually found one of your videos on Youtube
! Anyways a few tips from my own experience, use the 3.5mm hook, do not attempt this pattern with a 3.75, because you WILL not achieve the exact dimensions.. Also invest in flesh colored yarn unless you want a VERY pale Link like mine.. lol, here’s a url to my picture of my Link I made, it is on Facebook but the album is public, so anyone should be able to see it: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150257957572250.350010.517687249&type=1#!/photo.php?fbid=10150659939332250&set=a.10150257957572250.350010.517687249&type=3&theater
Also, I have yet to make the sword, sheath, bomb or shield.. I just got so excited that I finally finished
Thanks again for the pattern, it was AWESOME!!
Also I made this for my nearly 6 year old son, so I didn’t do the boot tips, or some of the surface crocheting on the arms & vest. I was getting frustrated with the amount of time I was spending on it.. Not the author’s fault, totally my own add-esque style of doing things
Thanks again!!
Hello! I really ur patterns! i’m making the chuchu and im having trouble figuring out how you sewed all of the nubblies to each other to close the gap. could you explain how that part works? thanks!
sorry! i meant I really like the patterns!
Basically you sew them to the chuchu then you sew them to each other. It’s the bottom of the toy so it’s not very visible. I just used whipstitch.
[...] auch nicht selbst geschrieben habe, sondern auch nur im Internetz gefunden habe, nämlich hier bei Nerdgurumi, die nicht nur diese unglaublich coole Figur gemacht hat, sondern auch noch den Companion Cube, und [...]
[...] made quite a few changes from the original pattern, not because I am some kind of crochet expert who thinks she knows better, but rather the opposite. [...]
[...] what it is, just in case one of my sons happens to read this post, but I will give you the link (click here!) and trust that those boys will be good enough not to sneak a [...]
I love all your patterns and really appreciate that you share them all. I have a quick quesion, though…For the sword blade, when you get to the part “SL ST then proceed to SL ST around”, do you mean slip stitch all the way around back to the first slip stitch or just around the tip of the sword? For some reason my sword doesn’t have the same defined point yours does…Any suggestions?
Thanks! Now I get it
. Have a good weekend!
Hi Emjay,
I’m now working on Link’s shield but can’t get it right….I know I’m doing something wrong because I’m not used to working in rows. The thing that is going wrong is that the edges aren’t at the right places and the shield doesn’t become square at the bottom. I think I either skip a stitch or sc in the wrong st. So….after your join, the sl st right? I do a ch 1. The next st, does that go into the joined st or into the one after the join, the first free one that is? And when my row is done and I join again, do I skip the ch 1 and join the last st with the official first? Hope you can help, I’m kinda stuck!
Regards, Sonja.
Once you have joined (once you have completed the last stitch from a row, doing a slip stitch into the first stitch from the same row) chain 1. That previous row should now look like a complete, continuous finished line of stitches. The CH 1 brought you up a step, so you can now build your next row right above the previous one. Then first SC from your next row will be built on the first stitch from you previous row. Have a look at this video, near the end I show a join so it may help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqeFp5zDUK4 Good luck! Let me know if you have any problems.
This is awesome! Have you ever tried sewing magnets into the hands and into the sword and shield? If they were strong enough that would be such a cool way to attach the accessories and make it more “action figure” like. And you could use it in many other ways for different amigurumi. For instance I saw a pattern somewhere else for a Katamari… Or you could make games… OK I’m done. I think I’ll make this and give it a try! Once I learn to crochet better that is, lol.
I wanted to try putting some of those teeny super strong ones they have at michael’s but they were charging $10 for like 4 which was too salty for my blood. That said the strap on the sword and shield do allow him to hold them and because he is wired he can be posed to hold the bomb and pig on his own. I do think magnets would have been great too though. It can be dizzying sometimes, all the ideas… so little time to do them all
I am really impressed with this pattern! wind waker was my favorite game:) i tend to leave long projects unfinished, so i dont think ill be doing this one for a while. but i have successfully finished a few pigs, and was wondering if you crochet in joined rounds or continuously (i use the latter) since my pigs snouts turned out differently from yours.
also, i think round 15 of the pig body would be better written as:
(SC, INVDEC) x 4; SC x 8; (16)
to avoid any confusion of what stitches are to be repeated? i dont know.
anyway, your pattern is definitely the best on the web (believe me, ive looked) and i love the details! definitely time well spent!
Thanks for the kind comments, very much appreciated.
That semicolon in round 15 should not have been a semicolon, but rather a comma or a “then”. The way I had it written indicated do a single crochet then four invisible decreases in a row, then 8 single crochet, which makes no sense in terms of stitch count. I’ll fix it, thanks for pointing that out.
For the pig snout I joined. I have actually become a big fan of joining since I started working more structurally. Even though I get the irritating line of visible join stitches down the piece, I like the way the rows stack one on top of the other more neatly. I also found when working in a spiral, it was harder to maintain symmetry when working sculpturally. Spiral is definately the superior way to go for spherical shapes, but I am a big fan of joining for sculptural shapes now. The good thing is, either way should do the trick
Hi, thanks for this awesome pattern! Love it. I stumbled upon it while creating my own toon Link. I’d rather not just make other people’s patterns because I want to make my own stuff, but sometimes use them to learn new stitches from and as an example and inspiration. (I’m still new to crochet.)
I saw yours when I was checking out how other people’s Links turned out and it was far out the best! Since I never had made a vest I used yours to learn from because it’s just perfect! I changed it a bit to make it fit my Link. I gave it little more a bell shape (wider down, tighter up.) I really liked how it turned out with the DC’s so I used DC’s for my hat too, like you did. I will post my pattern (for free) on my blog when it’s done, the blog that is, and will write that I used bits of your pattern as an example! (If you like that of course, but I think it’s only fair!) Maybe I’ll make your sword and shield also, why make that myself when you made them just as they should be!
When my Link is done I’ll send you some pic’s if you like.
Thanks!
Hi, I’m just having a bit of trouble on the tunic, I’m not really sure what you mean by ‘join’, or how to do it haha! could you help? Thanks
Sure, once you have done the last stitch in a round, you slip stitch into the first stitch from the same round, joining them together. So essentially instead of working in a continuous spiral, you work in set rows stacked one on top of the other.
Also, With the Hair detail, am I starting from the hair piece or the head?
From the hair cap.
ahh thank you
Hey there, Great pattern
Im just wondering with the hair cap, what is the final stitch count? I might be reading it wrong, but I dont think the numbers add up. E.g:
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5 (24)
I counted 20. If the final stitch count is twenty, do I have to change the number of stitches to the magic ring??
Im sorry if I cause an inconvenience but this is the only link pattern I can find that resembles Link from the Manga
Hi, you are reading it wrong. The pattern should be interpreted as:
4. SC then INC then SC (do this once for a total of 4 stitches); repeat x 5 (do it again 5 times for a total of 20 stitches); 20 + 4 = 24
Hello, was wondering if I wanted to sell finished products (not pattern of course) in my etsy shop would that be alright? I would include a link to the free pattern as well.
Not a problem, I have no issue with individual crafters selling items made from my patterns. Please refer to http://nerdigurumi.com/frequently-asked-questions.html for my covered ass answer regarding any possible implications or liability for infringing on the intellectual property of the characters themselves.
This is fantastic! Thank you so much for sharing it
So I just found your info on the yarn companies, again, very helpful! Now my question is which yarn colours to substitute for? If you have any input on this it’d be helpful, but if not thats okay, I will just order & see! The closest I’ve come to platinum has been either bernats handcrafter stonewash or peaches charcoal. For apple green there’s either sugar n cream hot green or peaches light sage. I’ve found no chocolate in either of the three yarn brands but that’s easy enough to find elsewhere. Thanks for allowing the blurbs of a yarn obsessed fellow nerd, hopefully there may be something helpful to be had to or from all my rantings!
Unfortunately Spinrite bought Elmore Pisgah out and is from what I can gather, ceasing production and phasing out most of the colours. You may need to divert your attention to acrylic yarn or substitute with other greens. The hot green could do the trick for the lighter green though. Chocolate is just a slightly darker brown so warm brown or anything close could do the trick
I am VERY impressed with this pattern! It looks amazing and I’m very thankful for the free pattern, though I do agree, you could sell these no problem! I’m going to be making this one for my husband and since I live in a very remote part of Alaska I’ll be ordering all yarn online. I’m having some trouble viewing the yarns that were used, I can see what brand & colour they are, but no further details(if their even are any). I went to bernats site & cannot find all the colours, also I don’t see any site for peaches n creme yarn. So my question is what yarn to use?! :p Is the peaches yarn discontinued or not available online?
My son is 20 & Link has a very special place in his heart, thanks to your genius & generosity I have the perfect gift for him. Couple of questions… Where should the legs be attached? (Well, I know where), but should they be centered on the bottom of the body, or more to the outer edge? I watched your tutorial on wiring arms (thank you so much), is it the same for legs? But I guess sort of up into the body then down again as an inverted U shape? Does that sound right? Thanks for your help & this awesome, awesome pattern
I put his legs centered coming out at the bottom of the body, like a humanoid type shape
The wire was basically upside down U shaped. 
WAY AWESOME! my BF will love it, once i get it done. he’s a huge zelda fan and im not sure if he played that particular game or not (how much you wanna bet he has?) but link is link, and he’s going to like it damn it! your other patterns are amazing as well, i love all your work and i love your backstory. You just made me into a huge fan!
Hi, I’m having trouble with some of the parts because I’m not used to joining my work when I go in rounds. Right now I’m trying to work on the cap and I’m having difficulty coming up with the right number of stitches at the end of each round.
For example in row 3:
3. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST; join; (6)
I keep ending up with way too many stitches. Should I be DC in the chain stitches? Or just leave them and starting the DC in the next stitch in the round?
Thanks for the pattern
The purpose of the first 3 CHs is to get your yarn up from your work so your first DC is “tall” because if you do a DC without the CHs first, it’ll be squished down and not the same height as subsequent one. Basically it goes like this:
CH 3 times (purpose is to get you working at the right height, sort of acts like a stitch but not really. Join into this at the end of this round). Do one DC in the next stitch then a DC increase in the following one, a regular DC in the next ST and then a DC increase in the next then join.
I would like to do this pattern but I am a beginner. I was just wondering what size hooks you used and the type and weight of yarn. I dont have any yarn so I would like to know how much I actually need to buy so I dont buy too much.
Thanks for this pattern. It is the best one I have seen.
I usually list in the pattern the size of hook I used, in this case it was a 3.5 mm hook. If you need to convert that to US sizes there is a chart on the right menu bar that lists all the equivalents. I wouldn’t suggest starting out with something as ambitious as Link. It has many pieces and involves a good deal of sewing and different stitches, which could be challenging and discouraging at first. You might want to consider trying out this little guy http://nerdigurumi.com/2010/08/beginner-amigurumi-peanut-critter-pattern.html It works up fast and has tutorial videos for most of the steps so it is great for beginners and a good way to get the hang of crochet. For yarn, this pattern used Lily Sugar & Creme, Bernat Handicrafter Cotton and Peaches & Cream yarn although other brands will work. You don’t need much at all for amigurumi since the pieces are quite small, so usually one ball or skein of the color you need is sufficient.
OMG I love this pattern! I’m going to work on both a regular and I’m re-colouring to make a Dark Link at the request of my son. Once I get these done I’d love to show them off to you if you are up for it. Won’t be until after Christmas though
Thanks much for sharing your amazing crochet patterns!
[...] [Source: Nerdigurumi] [...]
Those are absolutely amazing. I have been looking for a pattern just like this. Thank you!
I was absolutely thrilled to find this Link doll pattern. It is a going to be a Christmas gift for my brother. We have been playing video games since the first Link on NES came out. I am finished with Link himself and his bomb. I am halfway through sword and looking good so far. I am not sure what I am doing wrong when I make the shield though I have started it 2 times already and it looked lopsided. If I posted a picture of it, would you take pity on a fellow game nerd and see if you can figure out what I did wrong? It just wouldn’t be the same without his shield.
You do awesome work, thank you.
Sure thing, send me a photo (you can get my email in by clicking contact me at the top there) or post it somewhere and link to it in your comment, I will have a look. Lucky brother!
Okay, I have another question. I had some problems with the last few rows of the hat coming out true to the counts. Once I completed it, I compared to it the head and it is huge! Like, I can put the head completely into the hat. I don’t think its a gauge issue, as everything else seems to be okay. Has anyone else had this problem? Also, the vest on mine doesn’t seem to have the same definition at the neckline. I’ve been looking over the pictures and possibly those are doubles in the last row not singles?
I love this pattern and it is by far my favorite thing that I have ever crocheted. I’m not trying to complain, I’m just having a little bit of trouble with it. Thanks!
No worries in asking for help. I don’t mind that at all. I get that sometimes my directions are not intuitive or are flawed because honestly, *I* have a hard time deciphering them sometimes. I find the shaping or weird pieces are usually the ones I rip and redo so many times to get the right look, I sometimes lose track or the notes get bad and even in the best circumstances, are the hardest to describe and thus the hardest for folks (myself included) to understand. Since I don’t sell the patterns and I work on them here and there in various states, I don’t invest time into process photos and big step by step PDFs (I figure people prefer free to hand holding anyhow
). I try to as correct and close as I can, but flaws can come up. I don’t take offense when people point it out nicely or ask about something that seems weird or possibly wrong 
I am delighted to answer Q’s and help folks making my patterns if they run into problems because the funnest part is seeing the finished product and just the evolution of it is neat. Questions being addressed in the comments is awesome too because that way it’s there for everyone to see who might work on it in the future and run into the same head scratcher.
When you tried the hat on the head, did you have his hair made and applied? because the hair does add quite a bit of fatness to the head. The thing is the hat doesn’t really fit on like a proper hat does on a person’s head. I had to make the opening a funny awkward shape so that the hat would sit and drape right, not like a pointy straight cone or dunce cap, because that is what toon Link’s hat is like, it sort of drapes and flows, like a windsock. I tried proper normal increases for a cone shape and I just couldn’t make it sit and not look like a Christmas elf or something equally off.
The hat is actually stitched on, not just stuck on, for that very reason, because it wouldn’t stay on since it’s on the loosey goosey side. I pinned the hair on the head, stitched it on, then applied the hat and pinned it on. You can kind of stretch and place it so it is positioned sort of far back on the top of his head, revealing his luxurious bangs and sideburns, but the back goes to the base of his neck and the sides sort of cover his ears. Play with it until it looks okay, but the ears and hair must all be in place just right and his head should be stitched to his body already so you can make sure it looks right. Pins are your friend with this pattern, I cannot stress this enough.
The vest was applied to the body, pinned and stitched in place. Some of the definition of the neck was from how it was pinned in place and stitched so that may account for some of the way it looks. If you are noticing that it is sausagey in the body and worried he’ll look potato sack shaped, you’ll cinch it up with the belt, again stitched into place tightly.
I’ve gone over the two last rounds and this is what I came up with. I’m trying to explain it but if you want to email me a photo of what is happening and what you are encountering by all means feel free. I can have a look because I am perhaps not understanding or interpreting what’s going on correctly.
6. CH x 2 then DC x 3 (this part here is the back);
), will fish him out when I get home and look and get back to you when I have a moment. If it’s a mistake the pattern will be fixed)CH x 3 (skip over the next 4 stitches from the previous row to make the arm hole for the vest); DC to end then join;
CH x 3 (skip over the next 4 stitches from the previous row to make the arm hole for the vest) (this part here basically makes like a tank top spaghetti strap thing on one side);
DC x 2; SC then SL ST (this makes the work go down in a diagonal for the V-Neck shape, which you will secure in place to tidy it up and make the V shape even more prevalent by stitching it on later); then SC (this makes the V neck shape for the front of the vest) (going back up in a diagonal for the V shape); DC x 2; (I think this part I forgot to write in, have to double check the count, but it seems like it should be there because the vest was symmetrical and the way it’s written it’s not which isn’t making sense to me right now. I’m at work right now (on lunch… don’t tell the boss!
7. CH 1; SC x 3; SC x 3 over the CH 3 from previous row (SC over the back and the straps); SL ST x 7 (Slip stitch over the neckline to finish it off but without adding any bulk); SC x 3 over the CH 3 from previous row; SC to end and join. (this defines the sleeves and slip stitch around the neck to finish it off and make it pretty. It cleans up the “v” shape a lot too)
Wow, you are amazing for the quick and thorough response! I will play around with him a little, and I might send you some pictures later this week if I’m still having trouble. I have been working on the lovely accessories, since they are more portable. I want to spend the time to properly fiddle with him so that hopefully he looks half as good as yours. Thanks so much for this pattern, and your help!
Okay I had a close look and from what I can decipher there were 2 DCs after the single SC at the tip of the V for the vest. It is symmetrical. The problem is that I single crocheted around the sleeve openings one the vest was actually applied to the doll and stitched in place and it obscures the view so to speak… bringing me to another realization that I had neglected to mention that in the pattern… Whooops!
Will modify it now so all that is in there.
I am dying to make this pattern, but I cannot find gray cotton yarn for the life of me! If anyone has found other brands to substitute for one or both of the grays, I would greatly appreciate the advice.
You might want to have a look at wool yarns of a similar thickness to the other yarns you have, often wools come in gray. If no luck there you might be able to find an acrylic yarn like Red Heart or something that comes in gray. If it’s a different texture but a similar thickness it should be fine. Good luck!
I can’t believe you’re not selling this. These are some of the best designs I’ve ever seen, it looks just like Link!
Thanks! I sell nothing
I share with love for the nerd community to further my goal of invasive crochet fanart taking over the world. Now fly my pretties! 
I have only one word: AWESOME!!!
that’s 6 words
XD
would this be hard to make my son loves Zelda
I want to make this so bad ..thank you for making this you
are amazing
The pattern isn’t that hard, just mainly long. It uses a slip stitch, single crochet stitch, double crochet stitch and treble stitch, all of which you should be able to find help with in tutorial vids and whatnot on youtube. I’m always up for answering questions too if you get stumped
Might be worth giving it a shot! Or you could play it safe and just make the ChuChu. 
well, as soon as I saw this pattern I had to make it. I have made other Links but this pattern is by far the best I have ever run across. Mine turned out too adorable. I think I’m keeping him for myself lol. My son told me the shield is supposed to be blue, so that’s the color I did mine in, he also told me the sword was wrong, so I changed it a little. when I can figure out how to post a picture for you I will. Thank you so much for this pattern. The difficulty level was pretty easy for me, no mistakes that I found. You do an awesome job with your patterns!!!!!!!
Thanks, I am glad you enjoyed the pattern.
If you can get me a photo I will post it to the community gallery 
The shield is not supposed to be blue because this pattern was based on Wind Waker and his basic shield in the game is maroonish with a wooden back. http://ui27.gamespot.com/410/toonlinksecret_2.jpg Later on as the player goes through the story, he gets a blue shield and more tricked out sword, but he starts off with the basic ones, although I suppose your son may be correct in that the handle of the sort should perhaps have been brown or tan. The pattern could be tweaked or modified to make the more jazzed up items easily though 
love link!!!
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I love this – I haven’t played the Wind Waker Zelda game as I’m late to enjoying Zelda (I’ve loved the last two games on the DS). The accessories are very cool and the detail on Link is very impressive.
I’ve not yet started making my bouncer yet though I have bought in some extra colours of yarn so I should be able to start work soon!
Do you have any idea how much i love you right now? *giggles*
There are some link patterns on the net but yours is amazing!
I’m still working on my big daddy but this one is going to be my side project!
Thank you for putting this up! *big fan*
uh, wow. thanks for this nice pattern. i m still fighting with my big daddy. it’s resting…
i love zelda as well, it’s a great game.
I was looking for new patterns for gifts and I found your site. You have some really nice projects. My nieces are going to love their gifts.
Thank You.