First off, my method for embroidering mouths on amigurumi.
Second, how to paint blushy cheeks.
I finally busted out the mini-tripod and made a new tutorial video for joining rounds in amigurumi. Check out my snazzy new video editing skills, complete with fade in and fade out!
I’ll put together a page shortly with an image based overview as well but wanted to get this posted sooner rather than later since there have been a lot of questions on this lately. Enjoy!
This tutorial video demonstrates my technique for wiring amigurumi doll limbs so that they are posable. I’ve been meaning to get this up for a while since it is usually asked about when patterns are posted that I had wired. The technique uses residential copper electrical wiring which is quite inexpensive and easy to find at most hardware stores and is much bettern than floral wire or pipe cleaners because it’s stout enough to hold a pose and be bent and manipulated without weakening and eventually breaking the wire. I’ll add a more extensive explanation with photos to the help files shortly!
In others news, the smaller Domo-Kun pattern used to demo the wiring will be posted as soon as I get his teeth on and take some pictures!
Nerdigurumi Peanut Tutorial Bear
This pattern was the basis for the 2010 Amigurumi Workshops I did at Anime Evolution and Tsukino Con and is also the mascot for my website. It’s a fairly small and simple no-sew (for the body, the ears are sew on) pattern great for beginners that has step by step videos to help you on your way.
The videos were made to be shown at an in-person panel so they make references to “your kit” and things of that nature, but the techniques displayed remain relevant. There are different optional ears so you can make your peanut a cat, bear, dog or bunny or improvise things like hairdos or antennae to make any sort of weirdo or creature you like!
I made this video to illustrate the differences in the final look of Amigurumi, depending on whether a person crochets in one loop or both, and whether the right side or the wrong side is facing out. I see a lot of Amigurumi that are done wrong side out, and it’s a shame because it can make the piece look more chunky, less flowing and “nice”, as it would had they been working right side out.
When I first started out making Amigurumi, I came across the unfortunate and in my opinion, incorrect advice that it is always best to crochet in one loop only, because you use less yarn and your stitches are taller so it takes less time to work a piece up. What they failed to mention is that this technique makes most of your shapes look like chunky messes and that they always stretch and get weird, are too long and you can’t do the invisible decrease. It took a lot of grief, pulled apart pieces, disappointed pieces and confusion on my part as to why I was so unable to make my final piece look anything like the pattern, and why my crocheting looks so Frankensteiny compared to what I was seeing online.
When I figured it all out, it was a lightbulb moment, but I made this video to pass on the wisdom. The balls, each having the same amount of stitches, increases and decreases arranged in the same way, same hook, same tension, yet looking so different. Have a look and figure out which one you’d like your piece to look like.
I’ve put together a couple of quick and dirty videos on how to do the slip stitch details addons for Mr. Bubbles’ dive suit cuffs, drill etc because I found it really difficult to explain and after a few emails I received, it became apparent it was really difficult to comprehend as well.
