This amigurumi Domo-Kun is around half the height (5 inches) of my previous one and is also made differently, using joined rounds so that the stitches are not offset by a spiral and the red of the mouth can be crocheted rather than applied as a felt panel. I wasn’t thrilled with the felt panel for the mouth and wanted to try a crochet mouth. If you would prefer not to join and work in a spiral, ignore the “Join and CH1” at the end of each round and work the entire piece in brown and apply a panel of red felt or a separate rectangle of red crochet fabric for the mouth at the end.
Because this amigurumi is small, it can be completed in 2 or fewer hours which makes for good projects for people like me who have attention deficit issues with craft projects. As with all of my patterns, little Domo-Kun is free. If you have any questions or find any bits in the instructions confusing, please leave your query in the comments so all can see any clarifying responses provided.
So shy! 
Back of Doll 
Arm Joints 
Top of Head
Domo was made with a 3.5mm hook using worsted weight cotton yarn going through both loops. He is worked in rounds with joining every round. This helps maintain symmetry of the doll slightly better than working in a spiral. In joins, the CH does not count as a stitch.
SC = Single Crochet
SL ST = Slip Stitch
CH = Chain
Join = Slip Stitch into first stitch of the same round
INVDEC = Invisible Decrease
INC = Increase (2 SC in one stitch)
Head and Body
CH 10
starting in second CH from hook
1. INC, SC x 7 (down one side of the CH), INC then pop over into the other side of the same CH and do another INC (video of stitching in both sides of a CH) (these two increases serve as the U-turn at the end of your CH, the remaining stitches will work up the other side of the CH back to where you started from), SC x 7, INC, join then CH1; (22)
2. SC, INC, SC x 7, INC, SC x 2, INC, SC x 7, INC, SC, join then CH1; (26)
3. SC around, join then CH1; (26)
4 – 5. repeat round 3 for rounds 4 and 5; (26)
6. SC x 4, Switch to Red Yarn, SC x 7, Switch back to Brown Yarn, SC x 15, join then CH1; (26) (video of colour changes)
7 – 11. repeat round 6 for rounds 7 through 11; (26)
12. SC around, join then CH1; (26)
13 – 18. repeat round 12 for rounds 13 through 18; (26)
19. SC, INVDEC, SC x 10, INVDEC, SC, INVDEC, SC x 6, INVDEC, join then CH1; (22)
20. SC, INVDEC; repeat 7 times; join then CH1; (15)
21. SC, INVDEC, INVDEC; repeat 2 times; (10)
Finish off, stuff and sew shut.
Arm (Make 2)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like. You can make this in the spiral or joined, it’s up to you.
1. SC x 6 (6)
2. SC then INC; repeat 2 times; (9)
3. SC aroundl (9)
4. INVDEC, SC; repeat 2 times; (6)
5. SC around; (6)
6 – 11. repeat round 5 for rounds 6 through 11; (6)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in. Arms should be wired.
Leg (Make 2)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like.
1. SC x 6 (6)
2. INC x 6; Join to first stitch from this round; (12)
3. SC around in back loop (wrong side loop) only; (12) (this creates a sort of flat bottom to his foot); Join to first stitch from this round.
4. SC x 4, INVDEC, INVDEC, SC x 4; (10)
5. SC around; (10)
6. repeat round 5; (10)
I surface crocheted around the mouth to add a dimensional look or to cover up the zig zag line of red and brown stitches blending. (this video around 1:40 shows how to do surface Slip Stitch crochet details on finished crochet fabric). If any red yarn is poking through under the brown stitches, thread a tapestry needle with brown yarn and stitch underneath the brown yarn but over the red to try to cover it. If you follow the grain of the V’s it should be fairly invisible. I used 6mm black safety eyes but smallish black buttons or felt cut outs would work fine as well.