Lacy Crochet Sock Yarn Cowl
This cowl was made with Kroy Sock yarn, a fingering weight wool and nylon yarn made by Paton’s (Spinrite), in the Clover colourway. I needed only one ball (125 metres) to complete the cowl. The yarn is a teensy bit itchy for my tastes but it’s definitely fine for net to the skin wear, and it’s light and easy to work with. The colourway ended up looking pretty awesome and has an earthy, fall Bohemian vibe to it.
Pattern Details
This was made in joined rounds using fingering weight (sock) yarn and a 5mm crochet hook for the entire pattern apart from the foundation chain which was made with a 5.5mm hook in order to keep it stretchy. This pattern does not have gauge so try to fit the initial CH around your head and add to it in increments of 8 CH until it’s the size you want. Count on needing around 125 meters of yarn for this pattern. Work this in back loop only for a loose, lacy and lighter fabric. This cowl is like a straight tube and does not graduate however because of the looseness and natural drape of the fabric, it slouches nicely. Blocking is highly recommended.
Terminology
CH = Chain
SC = Single Crochet
SL ST = Slip Stitch
DC = Double Crochet
SK = Skip
Cowl (start using 5.5mm crochet hook)
CH x 97 then join with a slip stitch. Sitch to 5mm crochet hook.
CH x 1 (this does not count as a stitch)
1. SC around; join then CH 1 (the CH will not count as a stitch) (96)
2. SC, CH then SC again in the same first stitch from the previous round; CH 1 and SK next 3 stitches; DC x 3, CH 1 then DC x 3 all in the same stitch from the previous round (the 6 DC go in the 5th stitch from the previous round); CH 1 and SK next 3 stitches; repeat that previous sequence 11 more times for a total of 12 times for the first round; join to first SC, SL ST once to hook into the CH that was sandwiched between the two Single Crochets from the previous round then CH 2 (this will count as the first DC of the next round) (96)
3 a. DC x 2 (in the CH that was between the two Single Crochets which you just joined); CH 1 and SK to the next step; SC, CH 1 then SC again in the CH that was between the two clusters of 3 Double Crochets from the previous round; CH 1 and SK to the next step; This completes the first sequence when a round starts with a DC cluster.
3 b. The following sequence is completed 11 times in total. DC x 3 then CH 1 then DC x 3 (in the CH that was between the two Single Crochets ); CH 1 and SK to the next step; SC, CH 1 then SC again in the CH that was between the two clusters of 3 Double Crochets from the previous round; CH 1 and SK to the next step;
3 c. In the same CH that the first 2 Double Crochets of 3 a. were worked, DC x 3 then CH 1 then join to first DC. CH x 1 (this will not count as a stitch for the net round) (96)
4. Repeat round 2. (96)
5. Repeat round 3 steps a b and c. (96)
6. Repeat round 2. (96)
7. Repeat round 3 steps a b and c. (96)
8. Repeat round 2. (96)
9. Repeat round 3 steps a b and c. (96)
10. Repeat round 2. (96)
11. Repeat round 3 steps a b and c. (96)
12. Repeat round 2. (96)
13. Repeat round 3 steps a b and c. (96)
14. Repeat round 2. (96)
15. Repeat round 3 steps a b and c. (96)
16. Repeat round 2. (96)
17. Repeat round 3 steps a b and c. (96)
You can add more or use fewer repetitions to adjust the length of the cowl. Once finished join and weave in the end. It is highly recommended that you block your cowl in order to improve fabric drape and stitch definition.
Stitch count should be 96 not inclusive of CHs (unless pattern states they count as a stitch specifically) for every round however this is a very forgiving pattern that handles mistakes like a champ.
Do you have any other fingering weight patterns? This one is so beautiful and I can’t wait to try it!
Hi! This is a great pattern, & I love the look of it.
I have a question about the 2nd round.
In the instructions, you say DCx3, ch1, DCx3, all in the same st. Then ch 1, SK 3, & then repeat this set. You also say that this should give 12 sets of this sequence altogether. Yet by my following your instructions, I get a lot more than 12. Is something missing? In the one picture, it looks as if the ch just after the set goes into the 4th ch after the set of DCx3, ch 1, DCx3. Would that be so? If it is, then the 12 sets work out. 🙂
Thanks in advance for your answer to this query. 🙂
This is my first time to your site, & I love the rest of the items I see here, too. Thanks for all your work! 🙂
Hi! Please don’t mind my question. I realised just a few moments ago that I’d forgotten the SC, ch 1, SC bit. Now it all makes more sense. 🙂
Hi
i’d love to make this lovely thing but i can’t figure out round 3. i don’t understand what it means when it says ‘sk to next step’. i have tried to work it out but i don’t get how parts 3a,b and c fit together/ follow each other
can you advise?
thank you 🙂
They are basically describing the clusters in little subsets because you essentially start and end your round with a half cluster so it was hard to explain. All three (a b and c) make up round 3 when put together.
Hey there… That looks pretty neat, but I was wondering… Do you have a pattern for a beanie, just a normal beanie, maybe also a full mask… Because I want to make something for my brother. But I need a beanie and a full mask.
I want to make a beanie, and a full mask and make them all weird. But you don’t have to make a weird one. Just maybe a basic one? Cause you are real good at making patterns and crotched things. And you are really easy to understand!!!!!!!! So please,, pretty please?
Thank you if you do.
Thanks!!!!
P.S.— I want to make him the beanie, but he wants the full mask!!! So Imma try to make both!!!
No sorry I don’t have anything like that. Get a ravelry.com account and do a pattern search there, it’s a huge index and there is a ton of stuff on there.
Thank you!!!!!!
ooh, I love things that can be made with leftover balls of sock yarn. 🙂
I love it! and I’m very happy for your new crochet interest. I love making amigurumi but I love to make other things too, just like you, hehe.
Please, excuse my english, it is not very good ^^u