Aqua Teen Hunger Force (Frylock, Master Shake and Meatwad) Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Aqua Teen Hunger Force (Aqua Unit Patrol Squad 1) Amigurumi Pattern The Adult Swim cartoons from Cartoon Network have always had a special place in my heart. Though Sealab 2021 is my all-time favourite, especially the first two seasons (RIP Captain Murphy) the ATHF are very cool and feature dope ass MC Chris rhymes to boot.

Frylock, Master Shake a Meatwad

This playset was made for a commission for an amigurumi trade on reddit.com/r/gameswap with an awesome redditor that appears to be a fan of the show. I took the liberty of writing up the pattern as I went since it has been requested in the past and now seemed as good a time as any to deliver. The set is fairly structural in construction and needs plastic canvas reinforcement to ensure the pieces are well shaped and actually look like the characters and not bloated or puffed out when stuffed. Meatwad uses a modified popcorn stitch to create the lumps but apart from that, the pieces are fairly simple to put together. This is an advanced pattern for experienced crocheters.

The set was made using a 3.5 mm crochet hook and my stash of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn, colours listed below. Frylock and Master Shake both stand around 8 inches tall including the straw and fries. The facial details are felt and embroidery, and the jewel on Frylock’s back is painted felt.

See the Ravelry project page.

Yarn Colours: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton and Lily Sugar & Creme Red, Pale Yellow, Sunshine, Warm Brown, White, Mod Pink

Frylock
Fry Box (body) (red)
CH 17
1. SC x 3, DC x 3, TC x 4, DC x 3, SC x 3; then pop into other side of the CH and work back along the other side of each CH (demo video for working in both sides of a CH) SC x 3, DC x 3, TC x 4, DC x 3, SC x 3; CH 1; Join to the first stitch from this round then CH 1; (32 not including the CHs)
2. INC, SC x 14, INC, INC, SC x 14, INC; join then CH 1; (36)
3. SC around; join then CH 1; (36)
4. INC, SC x 16, INC, INC, SC x 16, INC; join then CH 1; (40)
5. SC x 20, CH 1 (this chain will create a break in the continuity of your single crochets and allow the fry box to maintain a shape with an edge rather than become like a bloated round shape. It is to be skipped over in the next round), SC x 20; join then CH 1; (40)
6. repeat round 5; join then CH 1; (40)
7. INC, SC x 18, INC, CH 1 (skipped over in the next round), INC, SC x 18, INC; join then CH 1; (44)
8. SC x 22, CH 1, SC x 22; join CH 1; (44)
9 – 12. repeat round 8 for rounds 9 through 12; (44)
13. INC, SC x 20, INC, INC, SC x 20, INC; join then CH 1; (48)
14. SC x 24, CH 1, SC x 24; join CH 1; (48)
15 – 17. repeat round 14 for rounds 15 through 17; (48)
18. INC, SC x 22, INC, INC, SC x 22, INC; join then CH 1; (52)
19. SC x 52; join then CH 1; (52)
20. repeat round 19; (52)
21. CH x 3 (this counts as the first stitch) TC x 2, DC x 3, SC x 3, SL ST x 8, SC x 3, DC x 3, TC x 6, DC x 3, SC x 3, SL ST x 8, SC X 3, DC x 3, TC x 3; join then finish off and weave in tail.

French Fry Top (the french fries are stitched to this then it is sewn to the inside of the fry box to create a sealed migurumi) (pale yellow)
CH x 17
1. SC x 3, DC x 3, TC x 4, DC x 3, SC x 3; then pop into other side of the CH and work back along the other side of each CH (demo video for working in both sides of a CH) SC x 3, DC x 3, TC x 4, DC x 3, SC x 3; CH 1; Join to the first stitch from this round then CH 1; (32 not including the CHs)
2. SC x 3, INC; repeat 7 more times; join then CH 1; (40)
3. SC x 2, INC, SC x 2; repeat 7 more times; join then finish off; (48)

French Fries (pointy ones, make 6, pale yellow)
CH 21
1. hook into second CH from hook, SC x 3, DC x 17; CH 1 then pop into other side of the CH and work back along the other side of each CH (demo video for working in both sides of a CH); (20)
2. DC x 17, SC x 3; CH 1 then pop your hook through the first SC from the beginning of the fry to make a slip stitch. You will fold your flat fry in half (think of the CHs as the spine of a card or book) and SL ST down the outside of the fry to secure it shut. This will make a stiff french fry shape.

French Fries (flat square ones, make 6, pale yellow)
CH 22
1. hook into third CH from hook, DC x 20; CH 1 then pop into other side of the CH and work back along the other side of each CH (demo video for working in both sides of a CH); (20)
2. DC x 20; CH 1 then pop your hook through the first SC from the beginning of the fry to make a slip stitch. You will fold your flat fry in half (think of the CHs as the spine of a card or book) and SL ST down the outside of the fry to secure it shut. This will make a stiff french fry shape.

French Fries (flat skinny ones, make 6, pale yellow)
CH 22
1. hook into third CH from hook, HDC x 20; CH 1 then pop into other side of the CH and work back along the other side of each CH (demo video for working in both sides of a CH); (20)
2. SC x 20; CH 1 then pop your hook through the first SC from the beginning of the fry to make a slip stitch. You will fold your flat fry in half (think of the CHs as the spine of a card or book) and SL ST down the outside of the fry to secure it shut. This will make a stiff french fry shape.

You can vary the length of the fries or make as many as you like. Make one skinny one that is 30 CHs long and wire that fry to make Frylock’s arm that he uses for doing stuff. Reinforce the box with plastic canvas before stuffing so it does not puff or bloat and looks like a french fry box. Eyes and facial hair should be done in felt.

Master Shake (white)
Lid (made in joined rounds so that the rounds are complete and symmetrical)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like.
1. SC x 8; join then CH 1; (8)
2. INC x 8; join then CH 1; (16)
3. SC then INC; repeat 7 more times; (24)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat 7 more times; (32)
5. SC x 3, INC; repeat 7 more times; (40)
6. SC x 2, INC, SC x 2; repeat 7 more times; (48)
7. SC x 5, INC; repeat 7 more times; (56)
8. SC x 3, INC, SC x 3; repeat 7 more times; (64)
9. SC x 7, INC; repeat 7 more times; (72)
SL ST x 72 (the next round is working in the back loop of round 9 in order to create an edge for the lid. For a demonstration of this technique watch this tutorial video)
10. CH 1 then SC x 72; join then CH 1; (72)
11. SC x 72; join then SL ST around the lid to create a stiff edge; (72 not counting SL STs)

Cup (made in joined rounds so that the rounds are complete and symmetrical)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like.
1. SC x 8; join then CH 1; (8)
2. INC x 8; join then CH 1; (16)
3. SC then INC; repeat 7 more times; join then CH 1; (24)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat 7 more times; join then CH 1; (32)
5. SC x 3, INC; repeat 7 more times; join with a slip stitch (40)
SL ST x 40 (the next round is working in the back loop of round 5 in order to create an edge for the bottom of the cup. For a demonstration of this technique watch this tutorial video)
6. CH 1 then SC x 40; join then CH 1; (40)
7. SC x 40; join then CH 1; (40)
8 – 10. repeat round 7 for rounds 8 through 10; (40)
11. SC x 9, INC, SC x 10; repeat once; join then CH 1; (42)
12. SC x 42; join then CH 1; (42)
13. SC x 20, INC; repeat once; join then CH 1; (44)
14. SC x 44; join then CH 1; (44)
15. SC x 44; join then CH 1; (44)
16. SC x 10, INC, SC x 11; repeat; join then CH 1 (46)
17. SC x 46; join then CH 1 (46)
18 – 20. repeat round 17 for rounds 18 through 20; (46)
21. SC x 11, INC, SC x 11; repeat; join then CH 1 (48)
22. SC x 48; join then CH 1; (48)
23 – 24. repeat round 22 for rounds 23 and 24; (48)
25. SC x 23, INC; repeat; join then CH 1; (50)
26. SC x 50; join then CH 1; (50)
27. repeat round 26 four this round; (50)
28. SC x 12, INC, SC x 12; repeat; join then CH 1; (52)
29. SC x 52; join then CH 1; (52)
30. SC x 52; SL ST then SL ST around the edge to strengthen the edge. (52 not including SL STs)

Straw (made in joined rounds so that the rounds are complete and symmetrical, pink)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like.
1. SC x 6; join then CH 1; (6)
2 – 15. repeat round 1 for rounds 2 through 15; (6)
Wire the straw and anchor the wire to the lid so the straw can be posed, then stitch the straw to the lid.

Hands (make 2, bright yellow)
CH x 5
1. DC then CH and SL ST in same place; repeat in the next 3 stitches then finish off leaving a long tail for stitching to the cup.

Reinforce the cup with plastic canvas to ensure it does not puff out or get rounded. Stuff then stitch lid to cup.

Meatwad
Lumps
Meatwad’s lumps are made using a modified popcorn stitch. Put them wherever you wish, replacing any single crochet stitch with a popcorn stitch lump. Because the lumps look best applied unevenly throughout Meatwad, add them as you go in a way that looks good to you. Lumps are optional but he doesn’t look very much like Meatwad without them.

To make a lump:
DC twice in the same stitch. After the second DC is completed, remove your hook, pop it through the first DC then back through the loop and pull the loop through that first DC.

Meatwad body (made in a spiral)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like.
1. SC x 8; (8)
2. INC x 8; (16)
3. SC then INC; repeat 7 more times; (24)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat 7 more times; (32)
5. SC x 3, INC; repeat 7 more times; (40)
6. SC around; (40)
7 – 13. repeat round 6 for rounds 7 through 13; (40)
14. SC x 3, INVDEC; repeat 7 more times; (32)
15. SC, INVDEC, SC; repeat 7 more times; (24)
16. SC, INVDEC; repeat 7 more times; (16) stuff
17. INVDEC x 8; finish off and leave long tail for sewing shut.

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