Legend of Zelda – Toon Link Play Set with Pattern
He has a sword and shield
This pattern has been a long time in the making and I dare say rivals my Bouncer in terms of intricate pieces and annoying details. If I had lots of spare time or was in prison or some such place, I’d go for different coloured Four Swords Links and add more accessories and enemies and of course Zelda, but for now this set is it. Some parts and details are optional and the accessories can be left out if you want to cut corners. I share the pattern for the whole thing, but be warned, it’s really long and may have some parts seeming complicated or confusing.
A Link was requested several times in the videogame thread so for those who asked, I am pleased to say, here you go 
If you tackle it and have questions or notice mistakes, let me know but if you could please use the comments, rather than contact me via email, other people who may experience similar head scratching will see your question and my answer, so it’s win-win.
Poseable!
His sword goes in a sleeve on his back.
It was so hard to pick an expression.
Shield is removable.
Inspired by Wind Waker
Hairdo was hard to capture...
What big eyes you have?
Red ChuChu
Link wants Jelly
Oink oink!
Legend of Zelda - Toon Link Amigurumi
Needs more pigs.
Sword and Shield
Link and his bomb.
Nefarious intent.
This set was made with a 3.5mm hook going through both loops unless otherwise noted. The eyes and shield details are felt and all other details are embroidery. Arms and legs should be wired.
Yarn Colours Used
Off White
Sunshine
Apple Green
Emerald
Silver Grey
Platinum *
Chocolate
White
Country Rose
Red
Pilgrim Peach
Delft Blue
Hot Pink
Grape
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
SL ST = Slip Stitch
Treble = Treble Crochet or Triple Crochet stitch
INVDEC = Invisible Decrease
INC = Increase (2 SC in one stitch unless otherwise noted)
General Assembly Notes
The body should be done first, attach legs complete with boots and boot details already done, then slip on vest and attach arms while vest is already on, hiding stitches under the vest. Do not attach head to neck until the vest is secured in place since his head is way too big for the neck hole. Belt should be stitched on very tightly and securely so he doesn’t look like bloated sausage Link. Use the buckle to hide your stitches. Wire arms and legs. Attach ears to head after hair but before hat.
Head
Off White
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6 (6)
2. INC x 6 (12)
3. SC x 3; INC x 3; SC x 3; INC x 3; (18)
4. SC x 3; INC then SC; INC then SC; INC then SC; repeat the whole thing; (24)
5. SC x 3 then INC; repeat 5 times; (30)
6. SC around; (30)
7 – 12. SC around (repeat for rounds 7 through 12); (30)
13. SC x 5; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; SC x 7; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; (24)
14. SC then INVDEC then SC; repeat x 5; (18)
15. SC then INVDEC; repeat x 5; (12)
16. INVDEC x 6; (6)
Finish off and keep a long tail for sewing in
If you want to do a nose, hook into the fabric where you want to put it and surface crochet SC x 2 then finish it off and weave in the tail.
Body (starts at the butt and works upside down
White
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18) switch to apple green
4. SC around; (18)
5. SC around; (18)
6. SC x 7 then INVDEC; repeat; (16)
7. SC around; (16)
8-11. SC around; (16) (repeat for rows 8 through 11)
12. SC x 6 then INVDEC; repeat; (14)
13. SC x 5 then INVDEC; repeat; (12)
14. SC x 4 then INVDEC; repeat (10)
15. SL ST then switch to Off White; CH x 1 then SC x 10; (10)
SL ST then finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Use a 3mm hook and Apple Green yarn to SL ST surface crochet all the way around the row where green meets off white to make a nicely edged shirt collar look.
Vest
Emerald Green
CH 26 and SL ST to join
1. In 3rd CH from hook, DC then DC x 23; join; (24)
2. CH x 2 then DC x 24; join; (24)
3-5. CH x 2 then DC x 24; join; (24)
6. CH x 2 then DC x 3; CH x 3 (skip over the next 4 stitches from the previous row to make the arm hole for the vest); DC x 2; SC then SL ST then SC (this makes the V neck shape for the front of the vest) then DC x 2; CH x 3 (skip over the next 4 stitches from the previous row to make the arm hole for the vest); DC to end then join;
7. CH 1; SC x 3; SC x 3 over the CH 3 from previous row; SL ST x 7; SC x 3 over the CH 3 from previous row; SC to end and join.
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Once the vest is stitch to the body of the doll, use a smaller hook to SC around the entire edge of the sleeve opening if you want to finish it off and make it look less like a muscle shirt. That step is optional.
Legs (make 2)
Chocolate or Brown
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC 8; (8)
2-5. SC 8; (8) (repeat for rows 2 through 5 then switch to white)
6. SC 8; (8)
7-11. SC 8; (8)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff boots or legs.
Boot Cuff
Chocolate or Brown
CH 11
1. SC 10; (10)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stitch around the top of the boot to create the cuff of the boot.
Boot Toe
At front of the bottom face of the brown “footie” where a boot toe looks like it would go, starting at the outer corner, surface crochet SC x 4 across then surface crochet SC x 1 downward then back SC x 4 across then SC x 1 one up then join and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stitch the 4 SCs across together and stitch closed.
Arms (make 2)
Off White
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC 8; (8)
2-4. SC 8; (8) (repeat for rows 2 through 4 then switch to apple green)
5. SC 8; (8)
6-11. SC 8; (8) (repeat for rowns 6 through 11)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing in.
Arm Detail
SL ST surface crochet around in green where the skin colour meets the green then CH x 1 and SC around to make a nice finished sleeve look.
Belt use a 3mm hook
CH x 28
1. SC x 27; (27)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing.
Belt Medallion
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. SL ST x 6; (6)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing
Hat
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 4; (4)
2. SC x 4; (4)
3. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, DC, 2 DC in next ST; join; (6)
4. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, 2 DC in next ST, DC, 2 DC in next ST, 2 DC in next ST; join; (10)
5. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 4; join; (15)
6. CH x 3, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 4; join; (20)
7. CH x 3, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST, DC; repeat x 4; join; (25)
8. CH x 3, DC, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 4; join; (30)
9. SC x 5, CH x 1, DC x 5, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 5, SC X 5; join (34)
10. SC x 5, CH x 1, DC x 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 6, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, SC X 5; join (40)
11. SC x 5, CH x 1, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, SC X 5; join (45)
SL ST around edge of hat, finish off and leave long tail for sewing in.
Hair Cap
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC 6; (6)
2. INC in each; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5 (24)
5. SC x 5 then INC; repeat x 3; (28)
6. SC x 3 then INC then SC x 3; repeat x 3; (32)
7. SC x 7 then INC; repeat x 3; (36)
8. SC x 4 then INC then SC x 4; repeat x 3; (40)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing in.
Hair Detail
Hook into the front and CH x 3, do 2 Treble crochet stitches in the next ST, 1 treble and 1 DC in the next ST and DC x 2 in the next ST after that. Now continue as normal (1 ST per ST), DC x 3 then SC x 4 and then SL ST around the remainder of the head cap all the way around to where you first hooked in. CH x 4 then hook into first treble from the previous row. INC in the first treble stitch from the previous round then SC x 9 and finish off. Weave tail into cap and hide.
Bangs
This creates a second lock of bangs to be affixed on top of the hair detail above to give a layered look.
CH x 12
SL ST x 2 then SC x 2 then DC x 2 then DC INC (2 DC in 1 ST) twice then treble crochet the rest and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing it in.
Sideburns (make 2)
CH x 8 SL ST x 2 then SC x 6 and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in.
Ear (make 2)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 5; SL ST x 2; (7)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in.
Shield (front)
Country Rose or Light Maroon
CH x 8
1. INC, SC x 5, INC (3 SC in 1 SC) now go around to the other side of the same CH like a U-Turn, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 5, INC then join. CH 1
2. INC, SC x 7, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 2, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 7, INC then join. CH1
3. SC 4, DC x 6, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, SC x 4, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, DC x 6, SC x 4, SL ST, switch to grey, join. CH 1
4. SC, INC, SC, INC, SC x 6, INC 3 in 1, SC x 6, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 6, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, SC, SC SL ST. CH 1
SL ST around
Shield (back)
Chocolate or Brown
CH x 8
1. INC, SC x 5, INC (3 SC in 1 SC) now go around to the other side of the same CH like a U-Turn, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 5, INC then join. CH 1
2. INC, SC x 7, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 2, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 7, INC then join. CH1
3. SC 4, DC x 6, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, SC x 4, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, DC x 6, SC x 4, SL ST, switch to grey, join. CH 1
4. SC, INC, SC, INC, SC x 6, INC 3 in 1, SC x 6, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 6, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, SC, SC SL ST. CH 1
In grey SL ST a line across top and bottom third of the shield.
Shield Handle
CH x 8
1. SC x 6 then finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in. Attach to grey strips to make handle for the shield.
Stitch the front and back together, right sides facing out.
Sword Blade (make 2 then stitch together, right sides facing out)
CH x 21
1. INC (3 in 1 ST), SC x 18, INC, hook into other side of CH (acts as a U-Turn to work up the other side of the CH) INC, SC x 18, INC (3 in 1 ST);
2. SC 17, SL ST then proceed to SL ST around, finish off and keep a long tail for sewing.
Sword Handle
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 5; (5)
2-4. SC x 5; (5) repeat for rows 2 through 4
5. INC x 5; (10)
6. SC x 10; (10)
7. INV DEC x 3; (7)
Finish off and weave in tail.
Sword Base
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC, INC, SC, INC, INC, SC; (10)
3. SC, INC x 3, SC x 2, INC x 3, SC; (16)
Finish off and leave a long tail.
Attach the handle to the base and sew securely. Wire the handle so it remains stiff. Pinch the base so it make a flat “envelope” around the bottom of the blade of the sword and stitch shut sewing the blade firmly in place.
Sword Sheath
Start with grey CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. DC x 6; join;
2. CH x 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, 2 DC in 1 ST, switch to brown DC, switch back to grey, 2 DC in 1 ST, 2 DC in 1 ST; join; switch to brown
3. CH x 2, DC x 5, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 5, 2 DC in 1 ST; join;
4. CH x 2, DC x 12; join;
5. CH x 2, DC x 12; join;
6. CH x 2, DC x 12; join;
7. CH x 1, SC around; join;
8. switch to grey; SC around ;
SL ST around, finish off and weave in grey yarn. Stitch to the back using brown yarn.
Bomb
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
Blue body of the bomb
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5; (24)
5. SC x 7 then INC; repeat x 3; (27)
6. SC around; (27)
7-10. SC around; (27) (repeat for rows 7 through 10)
11. SC x 7 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (24)
12. SC then INVDEC then SC; repeat x 6; (18)
13. SC then INVDEC; repeat x 6; (12)
14. INVDEC x 6; (6)
Finish off then sew shut and weave in tail.
Grey cap to the bomb CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
grey
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SL ST around; (12)
4. SC x 12 in back loop only; (12)
Finish off and leave long tail for sewing
Yellow stem or wick to the bomb
Hook into cap of bomb, ch 3 finish off leave tail snipped short sticking out.
Red ChuChu
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5; (24)
5. SC x 3 then INC; repeat x 5; (30)
6. SC x 2 then INC then SC x 2; repeat x 5; (36)
7. SC x 11 then INC; repeat x 2; (39)
8. SC x 6 then INC then SC x 6; repeat x 2; (42)
9. SC x 13 then INC; repeat x 2; (45)
10-16. SC around; (45) (repeat for rows 11 through 16)
17. SC 13 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (42)
18. SC x 6 then INVDEC then SC x 6; repeat x 2; (39)
19. SC x 11 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (36)
20. SC x 5 then INVDEC then SC x 5; repeat x 2; (33)
21. SC x 9 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (30)
22. SC x 4 then INVDEC then SC x 4; repeat x 2; (27)
23. SC x 7 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (24)
24-26. SC around; (24) (repeat for rows 24 through 26)
27. SC x 3 then INVDEC then SC x 3; repeat x 2; (21)
28. SC x 5 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (18)
29-32. SC around; (18) (repeat for rows 29 through 32)
33. INC then SC; repeat x 8; (27)
34. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 8; (36)
SL ST then flinish off leaving a long tail for sewing in the nubbly feet blobs.
Nubbly Feet Blobs Make 5
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18)
4. SC around; (18)
5. SC x 2 then INVDEC then SC x 2; repeat x 2; (15)
6. SC around; (15)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing in. Sew 7 stitches of every nubbly to the ChuChu body base. Once they are all attached, sew them all to each other to close the gap and give him an uneven blobbish footing.
ChuChu Eyeball Make 2
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
Start in Yellow
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC then SC; switch to hot pink then repeat x 2; (16)
4. SC x 5, switch to purple SL ST around. Using purple yarn, stitch to body, pull through center of the eye and tie off a knot to make a pupil and stitch in “bags” under the eyes.
Pig
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; CH x 1 (6)
2. SC 6 in back loop only and join (6)
3. SC then INC x 4 then SC; (10)
4. SC x 2 then INC x 6 then SC x 2; (16)
6. SC x 3 then INC; repeat x 4; (20)
7. SC around; (20)
8-14. SC around; repeat for rows 8 through 14; (20)
15. SC then INVDEC; repeat x 4; SC x 8; (16)
16. INVDEC x 8; (8)
17. INVDEC x 4; (4)
Finish off and sew shut, pull yarn through spot in butt and CH x 3 and cut to make the tail.
Pig Leg (make 4)
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6; CH x 1 (6)
2. SC 6 in back loop only and join (6)
Pig Ear
CH x 3
1. SC x 2; (2)
Finish off (should have a triangular shape) and leave long tail to sew into pig head.
Very cute – I made link and the shield pattern was great – a little problem with the hat being large but I was able to modify it nicely.
Has anyone told you there is a problem with your sword pattern?
I was able to make navi (separate pattern) link, his shield and zelda (I design I created using elements of your link pattern) in a week. I was also asked to make the sword I have been trying to make it for over a week but your pattern for the sword is SO confusing I haven’t been able to finish it. I noticed not many people who published their finished designs on ravelry were able to complete a sword that looked like yours and was wondering if anyone had pointed this out to you yet.
Well frustrated another day! Time to knit an octopurse….
(Really other than the sword bit lovely pattern)
If you actually have a question as to what specific instructions are confusing you on the sword and request assistance I can try to help you understand the instructions, but your comments was strictly criticism vice requesting assistance.
Love the pattern, planning on trying it soon, but I wonder how you wire the legs. Do you do a sort of inverted U, or do you attach the leg wiring to the arm wiring?
Inverted U.
This is by far the best amigurumi Link Ive seen. As a huge Zelda fan since the beginning, I am very critical and I have to applaud this. If it were The link from Ocarina of Time or Twilight Princess I would be learning to crochet right now lol.
Hey i was wondering where you got the yarn because i need some yarn and i don’t have much money.
Have a look at my FAQ and the links page for links. That said, most of what I purchased is no longer in production so you are sort of on your own.
Thank you for this pattern, it’s really wonderful! This is my version of the Zelda-Amigurumi: http://fuchsfell.wordpress.com/2013/03/14/a-link-to-the-past/
[...] aneinandergenäht werden. Zwischendurch bin ich oft genug über der detaillierten Anleitung von Nerdigurumi verzweifelt und habe die halbfertige Puppe für einige Zeit bei Seite gelegt. Aber letztlich wurde [...]
Hiya! I love your free patterns. I just linked this one with on my new blog post for Fantasy Friday and credited you by name.
http://crochetcricket.wordpress.com/2013/03/09/fantasy-friday-free-link-patterns-from-zelda/
Thanks for the great pattern!
sorry to bother you but i was wondering if you stuffed the feet of the chuchu and how do i sew the feet on? please and thank you!! God bless!!
I did stuff them a little bit. You should pin them in place with headpins then sew them on using the long tails and a tapestry needle that can accommodate the yarn.
Im working on the hat and I would like some help, please. Do I need to repeat the chains before the dc for every repeat?
No the Chain is just at the very beginning of each round.
Wonderful design! I’ve always loved zelda games and this is just awesome!
[...] Fotos gibt es im ganzen Häkelbericht. Wer selbst zur Nadel greifen möchte, findet die Anleitung auf Nerdigurumi. Ähnliche [...]
[...] von meiner großartigen Schwester nach einer Vorlage von Nerdigurumi hat Link nun endlich seinen verdienten Platz zwischen SNES und Nintendo64 gefunden. Jaja, die PS2 [...]
I’m in the process of getting all the colours for the pattern. The only one I’m trying to see that may or may not be used is listed as Pilgrim Peach. I’m not too sure where you used it. Could it be used for Link’s skin instead of Off White? This looks challanging, but it looks fun!
Pilgrim Peach was used for the pig. You could either not make the pig or make a different coloured pig since there are several if I recall. I used off white for his skin since his skin is more ivoryish than pink
i love to crochet but did not find some until neardigrumi thanx
would the pattern still work with a normal decrease instead of invisible?
I answered my own question. Did one with decreases and one with invisible decreases. Invisible works better.
Let me start by saying thank you, your patterns are fantastic. I made Kirby for my son and now it is his favorite, he carries it around everywhere with him.
I am having a problem with Link’s hat though. Starting at the 3rd row…
3. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST; join; (6)
If followed as it reads that would be 7 stitches into 5 from the previous row, instead of 6 stitches into 4. It continues that way through the entire hat. For example, on row 10, 6 increases are listed, but the stitch count at the end only goes up by four. If you follow row 10 as written you would have 33 stitches into 27 from the previous row instead of 34 stitches into 30. I tried just keeping true to your final row count on each row, but I don’t know how to adjust for not using all the stitches in the previous row, especially at the last few rows where there are singles, doubles, and increases, I am not sure how to proceed and I was hoping you could help me.
This is an older pattern. I really hate stitch counts, but I have gotten a bit better about it… a bit. Try this and let me know if it works out:
Hat
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 4; join (4)
2. CH x 1, SC x 4; join (4)
3. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, DC, 2 DC in next ST; join; (6)
4. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, 2 DC in next ST, DC, 2 DC in next ST, 2
DC in next ST; join; (10)
5. CH x 3, DC x 3, 2 DC in next ST, DC x 3, 2 DC in next ST, DC, 2 DC in
next ST; join; (13)
6. CH x 3, DC X 2, 2 DC in next ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in next ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in next ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in next ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in next ST; join (18)
7. CH x 3, DC x 2, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 5; join (24)
8. CH x 3, DC x 5, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 3; join (28)
9. CH x 1, SC x 5, DC x 5, DC, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC, DC x 5, SC x 5; join (30)
10. CH x 1, SC x 5, DC x 8, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 8, SC x 5; join (34)
11. CH x 1, DC x 9, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 5; join (40)
SL ST around edge of hat, finish off and leave long tail for sewing in.
I am confused even after using this comments version. (Starting with row 10) When I count all the numbers together it comes out higher/lower than the stitch count and the stitch counts don’t seem to match, as I can’t fit the amount of stitches (Just following the numbers and where to put the stitch not looking at the stitch count u have) doesn’t work into the prior row. Any help?? I am almost completely done with Zelda besides his hat.
He’s actually Link. Zelda is the Princess. Try now.
My bad Link, me and sister were talking about Zelda when I was wrote it. What should I try?
The part of the pattern you were having problems with.
I was thinking of putting a small magnet in his hand and sword. So he can hold it. I don’t know if you’ve tried it but I don’t know if it a good idea?
It could be. I had considered a similar thing but was unable to find magnets small enough that they would not stick out and look weird.
I’m almost done the pattern, but I’m having trouble with the hair. When it says to hook into the front for the hair detail, does it mean the front of the hair cap or of the head? Also, I followed the directions exactly, but my hat ended up a lot longer than yours – even though I used the same sized hook. Please help!
Thanks for making this pattern; it’s the best Link one I’ve ever seen!
It means hook into the front of the hair cap, although this is easiest done when the haircap has already been applied but not stitches don too tight in the front. All I can say for the hat is maybe try to reduce a few rounds from DC’s to SCs to shorten it? If you are talking about the opening it is quite large but once fitted over the head and pinned in place it closes up and “fits”. If you want a more helpful answer maybe take a picture, upload to imgur and post a link in a comment reply so I can have a look at the problem you are having. If it is a really big opening that worries you though, that’s normal.
Hi!
I love your patterns! I was inspired by your chuchu pattern, it’s so cute! I wanted a smaller one so I made my own design. I would love for you to have a look- http://makingitwell.blogspot.co.nz/2012/08/now-for-something-little-geeky.html
Thanks for all your awesome patterns
This is just so adorable!!! I too am in love with link and all his friends. I am in the process of making this doll for my little brother as a surprise and I am so excited to see the look on his face when he gets to see it! I found that if u make a bunch of bombs u can put them in a bomb bag and that if u use the same basic pattern u can make an ADORABLE Zelda too
I also made a bunch of different colored ChuChu’s and now it is a complete play set with many different parts. I am also making navi and the medallions from the ocarina of time legend of Zelda because that is my brothers obsession at the moment 
too excited and thank you soooooo very much for the motivation to do this!!!!!
I was wondering if I use the hooks listed, how tall it is? Thanks in advance! This looks to be the best pattern for Link I have seen!
It was around 6 inches tall if I am not mistaken.
WOW, thank you for Link. I will make it for my son and he will love it, I am sure.
Marrigje
I’m, trying to make this pattern and I can only find a few of the original yarns, I’ve been trying to find substitute, but I can’t find one that looks anything like apple green or chocolate. I was thinking about getting Soft Ecru to replace Off White which is out of stock everywhere I’ve looked. Please help. Thank you so much for this amazing pattern, it will make my friend very happy for her birthday.
You don’t have to make it with the same yarns
Substitute similar weights and colours that work for you and you’ll be fine. Soft Ecru is a bit yellowish but it might work. Apple Green doesn’t really exist in cottons anymore but you might find a sagey kind of colour, or hot green that works, or consider switching to acrylic maybe?
I was trying to figure out how to assemble his hair, but for some reason I can’t get it to look quite right. Help!
Do you have a specific question or can you give a description of what does not look right? Photos help too. It’s hard to make suggestions or clarify if I have no idea what the problem is.
i love this pattern, but unfortunately i don’t have a 3.5mm hook or a 3mm. would the pattern still work if i use a slightly larger hook, like a 4.25mm?
Yes it would work and will just be a larger end product, which is no bid deal
Be sure to use a yarn bulky enough for stuffing not to show through between stitches.
thanx
also i was wondering if you could maybe think about making a Master Chief from Halo? my brother loves that game, and i wanna make him one for x-mas
[...] Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns with love for the Nerdy » » Legend of Zelda – Toon Link Play Set… He has a sword and shield Nintendo’s The Legend of Zelda : the Wind Waker is probably my favorite of the Zelda games. It’s a beautiful game with a great story, good music and a funny, weird, cute and fabulous bunch of characters. Toon Link is really expressive, cute but not too cute, child like and innocent but not over the top. [...]